Getting hooked
The Fish offers sushi lovers the reel thing
SPECIAL TO THE STAR-TELEGRAM
Among the newest entries in the dining/drinking extravaganza in Dallas' fashionable West Village neighborhood, The Fish sushi restaurant seemed like a spot that would be packed to the gills by nightfall.
Surprisingly, the sleek restaurant and bar wasn't particularly busy at 7 p.m. one recent weeknight. The Fish offered all the right elements, from a stylish, contemporary setting in black, red and gray to flavorful food in pretty presentations to excellent service. There was but one misstep in our meal, and we still came away thinking this would be a good place to visit again.
The perfect starter was the Hot Rock ($15), a choice among numerous temptations on the Small Plate list. These are ideal for sharing, with assorted goodies from fancy rolls to sauteed scallops to tempura options.
The rock, presented on a small bamboo tray, was sizzling-hot enough for us to cook paper-thin, supple slivers of wagyu -- the Japanese-style, ultra-tender beef -- after dipping them first into a barely sweet ginger-spiked soy. This was a good conversation piece as we perused the balance of the menu.
From a long and ambitious list of specialty rolls, which included the obligatory over-the-top creations, we went for something that seemed less of a production. Our pick was Crunch ($11), a relatively simple roll that found spicy yellowtail with green onion at the center of the customary seaweed wrap and sticky rice but topped with crispy tempura bits and a few tiny sprinkles of red fish eggs.
Salmon ceviche ($12), a special that evening, was remarkably good. Lush slices of marinated, silken pink fish mingled with red bell pepper and a tangle of crunchy daikon in a light dressing of rice vinegar and sesame oil to achieve perfection in flavor and texture.
Miso silver cod ($12) was broiled and beautiful, but the sake marinade pushed the limit on sodium content. The true error of our dinner, however, was the bacon-wrapped enoki ($6) from the grill. When we alerted our server that the bacon had turned a bad corner and the mushroom had gone to mush, she quickly replaced this with a superb skewer bearing grilled jalapeño and shiitake.
Sated, we were unable to tackle Large Plate offerings, including walnut-shiso-crusted lamb chops ($27) or pan-roasted sea bass in a sake-soy reduction ($19). Maybe these are the dishes that late diners are enjoying after a few of the Asian-inspired drinks in the bar.
The Fish
3636 McKinney Ave.
Dallas
214-522-0071
Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday. Dinner, 5- 11 p.m. Sunday-Wednesday; 5-midnight Thursday-Friday; noon-midnight Saturday.
Cuisine: Japanese
Essentials: Major credit cards; full bar; smoke-free; wheelchair-accessible.
Entree cost: $6-$28
Signature dishes: Hot rock Wagyu; salmon ceviche; miso silver cod
Recommended for: Adults hungry for sophisticated presentations in Japanese cuisine
Good to know: Look chic or feel out of place; valet parking a plus; restaurant faces golf center on City Place West rather than McKinney Ave.
